- Motor Controller Replacement Kit
- Replacement Motor Controller
- 2 x Zip Ties
- Tube of Thermal Paste
- Tube of Thread Lock
- 4 x Motor Controller Mount Screws
- Charge Port (spare)
- On/Off Switch (spare)
- Battery Meter (spare)
Tools and Materials:
- 3mm Allen T-Handle
- Utility Knife
- #2 Phillips Screwdriver
- 14mm Wrench
- Heat Gun (Optional)
Place the board on a riser that hangs the wheels off the table. A small box works well.
Use the 3mm Allen T-Handle to remove the 6 screws holding on the battery box. Put the 6 screws to the side.
Grab around the board while supporting the unattached battery box. Carefully flip it over.
Flip over the battery box.
Notice that the motor wires coming out of the battery box will now be crossed.
Use the #2 Phillips Screwdriver to remove the 6 screws that hold the lid onto the battery box.
There may be a light bead of silicon holding the lid to the battery box. Gently grab the motor wires near the back of the battery box and lift up to dislodge the lid. Lift the lid off of the battery box.
Disconnect the battery from the motor controller before working on anything inside the battery box.
View the motor controller. Follow the wire from each motor. Note that the wiring you need to unplug for each motor is on the opposite side of the motor.
Identify the 3 wires that connect each motor to the motor controller, along with the zip tie.
Carefully use the utility knife to cut the zip tie. Do not sever the wires.
Disconnect the 3 wires. Note which colors match up. We suggest taking a picture before disconnecting.
Pull the grommet off the battery box.
Repeat these steps for the other motor. Use the exacto knife to cut the zip tie. Make sure not to sever or puncture any of the wires.
Unplug the three motor wires.
Pull up on the rubber grommet holding the wiring harness to the box. Pull the battery box away from the motors.
The battery box is now removed from the deck.
Find the red charge port connector. Unplug the battery from the charge port.
Use the 14mm wrench to remove the charge port nut. Turn the nut counter clockwise until it releases from the threads. As the clearance is very tight you will have to place the wrench, turn, then replace the wrench head several times.
Optional: You may use a heat gun on low heat setting or hair dryer to heat and soften the glue that holds this nut in place. Be careful not to apply too much heat to the wall of the battery box, or it will soften and break.
You may need to hold the outside of your charge port with your other hand, while turning the charge port nut counter-clockwise.
Remove the charge port nut and washer.
Pull out the charge port.
Identify where the On/Off Switch plugs into the motor controller. Unplug the On/Off Switch connector.
Identify where the Battery Meter plugs into the motor controller. Unplug the Battery Meter connector.
Use the #2 Screwdriver to remove the four screws securing the motor controller to the heat sink below it. Firmly press the screwdriver into the screw heads and turn counter clockwise.
Remove the four motor controller screws. If they fall into the box, you can turn the box over and catch the screws as the fall out.
Recognize that the motor controller screws are different from the lid screws. The motor controller screws, seen below, have fine threads and do not have pointed tips.
Loosen the motor controller by gently but firmly pulling it up by the motor wires, as it may "stick" to the heat sink below it due to the presence of thermal compound between them. You need to lift firmly to release it, but be careful not to damage the On/Off Switch by pulling too hard once it separates from the heat sink.
Once loose, pull the motor controller up on the Charge Port side and out at an angle.
Before installing the new motor controller, apply Thermal Paste to the heat sink. Apply a generous bead that is evenly spread across the whole surface of the heat sink.
Grab the new motor controller. Orient the motor controller so that the motor wires exit towards the rear of the battery box.
Drop it down into place at an angle from the Charge Port side of the battery box to slide under the On/Off Switch and Battery Meter wiring.
Press the motor controller down firmly to evenly spread the thermal compound while sliding it to line up the motor controller mounting holes with the mount holes on the heat sink.
Use the #2 Phillips Screwdriver to secure the 4 motor controller screws.
You may need to hold the screw to the end of the #2 Phillips Screwdriver with the tip of your finger while setting them each into place.
Note: Be careful to not strip the screw heads. Tighten securely, but do not over-tighten.
Grab the charge port.
Remove the charge port nut and lock washer. Insert the charge port into the side wall of the battery box, making sure its rubber cover sits between the charge port and the outside of the wall.
Use thread lock on the threads of the charge port. Replace the washer and begin to hand tighten the nut.
Continue to tighten by hand until you feel too much resistance. Then use your off hand to hold the charge port while tightening the nut with the 14mm wrench.
Continue tightening until the charge port is firmly in place and the rubber gasket of the charge port cover is tightly compressed.
Plug the charge port's red connector to the battery's red connector. Make sure the two are lined up so that the wire colors match. Do not force them if they are not lined up.
Plug the On/Off Switch back into the motor controller.
Plug the Battery Meter back into the motor controller.
IMPORTANT: Take the wiring harness from the motors. Cross them. They will uncross when we flip over the battery box during the final steps of install.
Your Pre-Built Battery Box with Speed Controller may have a loose antenna, which looks like this:
First, pull off the adhesive backing.
Adhere the antenna inside the outer wall of the battery box, next to the on/off switch. Be careful to secure it in a way where the wire wont be pinched or bent by other wires or the box lid.
Make sure to push the battery box to the edge of the deck foam closest to the motors to ensure you are not pulling and putting stress on the motor wires.
Plug the motor wires into the motor controller.
On some newer replacement motors the connections may differ from your original motor: red-red, green-green, blue-blue.
Make sure all connections are firm, and the clear rubber insulators fully encase all exposed copper on each wire connector.
Reconnect the battery to the motor controller. Power on the board and remote and briefly engage the throttle. If the wheel spins the correct direction, you have the motor wiring correct. If it spins the wrong direction, try the other wiring order, or switch any two of the three motor wire connections for the motor.
Power off the board. Disconnect the battery from the motor controller before proceeding.
Place the rubber grommets into their slots. Make sure to pull the battery box towards the motors so not to stress the motor wires.
The motor wires should cross on the outside of the battery box.
Re-secure the zip ties around the wiring bundles. Tighten them securely, but do not over-tighten.
Carefully use the box cutter to cut the zip tie. Do not sever the motor wires.
Reconnect the battery to the motor controller.
Put the lid back into place. Notice that the countersinks are only on one side. This side should be facing up.
Use the #2 Phillips Screwdriver to tighten the six screws that hold the lid on.
Flip the battery box over.
Grab the board so that you are supporting the unattached battery box. Carefully flip it back over and set it back on top of the riser box used earlier.
Use the 3mm Allen T-Handle to secure the battery box to the deck with the six battery box mount screws. Put a drop of thread lock onto the threads near the end of each screw.
Ready to ride!
Motor Controller Kit